Forums

Are you an adjuster? what is your issue? Pretty much all drywallers use screws on drywall.

If you have nailed drywall in relatively new construction you have an issue.

I think the nail v screw question depends on the age of the contractor, older guys nail, the youg'ns like the power tools. I have always gone by the following, no closer than an inch from the edge, spacing no more than 12". And yes I nail. Ceiling may be closer.

http://www.tape-finish-texture-dryw...acing.html

JWG

what you are looking for is called a "nailing schedule". There are charts that specify how many nails go where. For example, almost anybody that has seen a 2x4 framed wall has seen that each stud has two nails to hold it to the sole (or "sill") plate (the 2x4 laying on the floor) and another 2 nails going into the top plate. One nail isn't enough and 3 is to many- 3 nails would actually weaken the end of the wood. Also the length and type of nail is important.

for drywall, taken from the San Bruno CA building dept. website (http://sanbruno.ca.gov/comdev_image...Code.pdf):

NAILING
Nails should be driven so that the head is in a small dimple formed by the last blow of the hammer. Take care
not to fracture the board when nailing. Fractures of the wallboard caused by over driving must be corrected by
additional nailing. Nails must be between 3/8" and 1" from the edges, and nails on adjacent edges should be
opposite each other. If you are using the single nailing system, the nails should be spaced 7" on center on the
ceilings and 8" on center on the walls. The double nailing system is also permitted. Groups of two nails 2 - 2
1/2" apart are spaced 12" on center in this system. Approved screws may also be used to apply wallboard.
Screws must be placed 3/8" from the end or edges of the board and spaced 12" on center. Screws must be
used for fastening wallboard at pocket doors.
Fasteners at the top and bottom plates of vertical assemblies, or the edges and ends of horizontal assemblies
perpendicular to supports, and at the wall line may be omitted except on shear-resisting elements or fire
resistive assemblies. All edges of Braced Wall Panels and firewalls must be nailed to framing.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

what you are looking for is called a "nailing schedule". There are charts that specify how many nails go where. For example, almost anybody that has seen a 2x4 framed wall has seen that each stud has two nails to hold it to the sole (or "sill") plate (the 2x4 laying on the floor) and another 2 nails going into the top plate. One nail isn't enough and 3 is to many- 3 nails would actually weaken the end of the wood. Also the length and type of nail is important.

for drywall, taken from the San Bruno CA building dept. website (http://sanbruno.ca.gov/comdev_image...Code.pdf):

NAILING
Nails should be driven so that the head is in a small dimple formed by the last blow of the hammer. Take care
not to fracture the board when nailing. Fractures of the wallboard caused by over driving must be corrected by
additional nailing. Nails must be between 3/8" and 1" from the edges, and nails on adjacent edges should be
opposite each other. If you are using the single nailing system, the nails should be spaced 7" on center on the
ceilings and 8" on center on the walls. The double nailing system is also permitted. Groups of two nails 2 - 2
1/2" apart are spaced 12" on center in this system. Approved screws may also be used to apply wallboard.
Screws must be placed 3/8" from the end or edges of the board and spaced 12" on center. Screws must be
used for fastening wallboard at pocket doors.
Fasteners at the top and bottom plates of vertical assemblies, or the edges and ends of horizontal assemblies
perpendicular to supports, and at the wall line may be omitted except on shear-resisting elements or fire
resistive assemblies. All edges of Braced Wall Panels and firewalls must be nailed to framing.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is a "fastening schedule" from the State of Massachusets:

http://www.mass.gov/Eeops/docs/dps/...80120d.pdf

Building inspectors are familiar with these schedules and will check to see if they are followed.

Construction defect attorneys are also knowledgeable about these details. For example, if there is a 20 unit building and the drywall wasn't attached with sufficient fasteners, the CD attorney will claim that the drywall has to be removed and new drywall hung and each unit. This of course will mean the kitchen cabinets have to be removed etc. So the attorney files a suit for $100000000000.00.

i re-read your original question- the nailing schedules also specify the type/length of nail or screw also, not just the spacing. You can also find manufacturer recommendations, for example from the National Gypsum Association, or whatever their name is.

Correcting improperly fastened dry wall may fall under Law and Ordinance coverage, which would most likely have a lower coverage limit.

Causation and defects are two different things, although they may work together to contribute to the loss.

Did your engineer come up with a reason why the nails popped? Nail popping is often moisture related. If MOISTURE migrated to the studs even though WATER didn't, the nail popping might be covered (especially when your post indicates the policy already appears to cover ensuing water damage even in the absence of "wind created opening" )

[I] determined that this area had not been wet...

How? did you use a moisture meter? If it was already dry when you inspected, how did you determine that it wasn't wet previously? Again, nail popping is often evidence of moisture.

It might be reasonable to deny the nail-popping under an exclusion for improper design or construction. But be careful- the improper design/construction needs to be closely related to the nail popping. You mentioned there are "many issues regarding design, material and workmanship". In my opinion, only the specific issues that contributed to the nail popping (ie nails that were too short) would be relevant for a denial. Ceiling joists that are 20" OC when they are supposed to be 16" OC might be a serious construction defect but probably wouldn't contribute to the nail popping.

Let's say hypothetically nails would have been approved by the building inspector if they were a little bit longer. If those correct, longer nails would have also popped with some moisture then I don't think it would be good faith to deny the nail popping if it was caused by moisture.

Another consideration is that it is not right to use modern construction standards to evaluate the workmanship of construction that was up to standard when it was originally built.

I handled a fire on a beach house that was built in the 1920's. The walls were made without studs- the exterior siding was placed horizontally and nailed to the vertical interior paneling- the wall was just two layers of thin wood, no framing at all. This was not a "construction defect" - that's just how beach houses were constructed back then. Today, if someone tried to build it that way it would be considered a huge defect. Of course, even if it was a "defect" it wouldn't trigger a denial, because the odd construction had nothing to do with the fire.

So I would ask the engineer the following questions:

1) did moisture cause the nail popping? (yes, no, maybe, can't tell)

2) is the use of those nails in that way a current code violation/known defect?

3) was the use of those nails a code violation/defect when it was originally installed?

4) If correct nails had been used, would the nails have popped anyway? (yes, no, maybe, can't tell)

I would also review the scope of repair. If the scope of repair is to install a new drywall ceiling and paint it, and that scope costs $2311.00, that information might be useful to the insurance carrier, who might decide to just pay it rather than deny it. Also, if you have determined a scope of repair that costs X amount of money, it can help to limit damages later on, if the carrier decides to deny the claim and loses later at trial.

Here is an article on nail popping:

http://www.paintsource.net/pages/so...ctions.htm

The article talks about trusses having unequal moisture in the lower chord vs the rafters, resulting in a bowing of the lower chord (ceiling joist). So clearly, moisture in the attic can cause bowing of the wood and resulting nail pops.

If you find that the nail pops are more prominent in the middle of the span and less on either end where the joist is attached to the wall, this would be a clue that the joist has bowed upward.

If you can show that correct nails would not have popped I think you could deny the claim on the construction defect exclusion. To avoid a successful bad faith claim, I believe you need an opinion from an engineer that the loss would not have occurred if the correct nails had been used.

If however there was moisture that bowed the wood and even correct nails would have popped, I think you probably should pay the claim.

Thanks to all!

what happened? can you tell us?