09/06/2008 9:37 PM |
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Two questions -
- On a gable roof if the sides are uneven how do you change the measurments? I have tried everything I can think of but no use. I stumbled into it once but don't know what I did to make it happen.
- This is along the same lines - how do you make a saltbox roof (one story in front with dormers and two stories in back)
I suspect the answer to both is simular. I am using Xactimate 25
Thanks.
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okclarrydVeteran Member Posts:954
09/06/2008 10:44 PM |
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If you will highlight one of the slopes of the roof and go to properties--go to the tab that shows gable, hip, mansard, etc, and go down to the box where you can choose how you measure the roof---go to rafter length. At this point you can change the slopes to their actual length. If you highlight both slopes way back at square A, it won't work. If you highlight only one slope, you can change the rafter length of both. Clear as mud?
Larry D Hardin
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09/06/2008 11:40 PM |
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Thank you so much. I knew it must be something I was overlooking.
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HuskerCatVeteran Member Posts:762
09/08/2008 11:54 PM |
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Sometimes, there are just those roofs that you can't do on Xact. And, even if you can manage to make the Sketch diagram, it never comes out like you need it to for the estimate to match the reality. Simple ranch homes, with an occasional offset OK, but otherwise do a diagram on those cut-up dogs & scan it as an attachment with the 'old school" calculations penciled off to the side for each slope. You will feel more comfortable, as will the insured & the inside examiner. Sure, it takes a couple more minutes on the front side... but no questions and extra spent time on your part on the back end.
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09/09/2008 11:05 AM |
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Mike, I have done some pretty cut up roofs with Xm8, overlaps, different levels, hips with gable dormers. One problem most have with sketch is all the little tricks. I am by no means an expert, but I have found that if done correctly, you can sketch about any roof, and with the 3d view, you can see if its looks right before you finish.
JWG
I know the voices aren't real, but sometimes they're right!
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BobHVeteran Member Posts:759
09/09/2008 10:36 PM |
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Posted By Linda Gold
...how do you make a saltbox roof (one story in front with dormers and two stories in back)
Posted By Jim Gary
...One problem most have with sketch is all the little tricks.
Yep, and a good place to start is selecting the slope you created and deciding what the HEIGHT of the eves will be (for example 9' more than the footprint of a one story home, whatever the wall height is). You can see what that looks like on page 3 of this other thread, talking about "eve height"
And when you have slopes that intersect, run under, run above, you have to know to change the EVE HEIGHT setting for that slope or new roof section or you will achieve garbage. And as Jim says, toggle to 3D view now and then and give it a spin.
The creater of this site, Roy, has a good Blog on doing Roofs in Sketch with Xm8.
For general info on roofing there are other threads such as this one here (click link)
Bob H
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09/10/2008 6:09 PM |
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If you ever get a chance, take a class from Renfro, or Mason claims. These are adjusting firms teaching you as adjusters, not a class to get you ready for and sell you the next class. And BTW Mason was 1/2 the price of the "certified" Xm8 classes, Renfro was free,(it was an unscheduled get together at another class). JWG
I know the voices aren't real, but sometimes they're right!
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Tim_JohnsonMember Posts:243
09/10/2008 6:50 PM |
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Cut up roofs can be done, but it is not easy to learn how without some help. Here is one done by an adjuster that works for me.
Tim Johnson
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09/10/2008 7:58 PM |
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This one took about 30 min
I know the voices aren't real, but sometimes they're right!
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HuskerCatVeteran Member Posts:762
09/11/2008 12:00 AM |
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You say that was 30 minutes, but it is not your average bear roof. So was it 30 minutes knowing the "tricks", or 30 minutes including experimenting? Looks like something I'd probably done before in about 5-10 minutes plus side calcs showing sq ft per each labeled slope with totals for off & on (old school diagram scanned & pdf'd to file) . So, I guess it boils down to what your vendor/carrier prefers you send to them. But having been on both ends of the file, I want to see something that is clearly and accurately describing the scope of the loss. On the 2 previous illustrated diagrams, there are either no measurements or the span/area of the measurement is a little bit unclear to me (might just be a sizing problem, or old eyes) How can the carrier discuss or validate a settlement, if the contractor/insured has an issue with the scope & settlement? I remember the old DDS/Integra had such a simple roof sketch program that was pretty easy, with clearly understandable calcs off to the side of the page. Anything less than that doesn't really seem acceptable even if you only have 1 out of 10 questioned.
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09/11/2008 7:47 AM |
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The calculations are done as you sketch. I did not include them in the cut and paste to redue the size of the pic. Once I finished the sketch, I was ready to add est lines
JWG
I know the voices aren't real, but sometimes they're right!
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BobHVeteran Member Posts:759
09/11/2008 8:31 PM |
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Someone sent me a private message, I am going to answer it here so others can see. Or if I am wrong, others can contribute.
Posted By Question from Private Message on 09/11/2008
...I have a quick question if you don't mind. When tying a hip into the side of a gable (or another hip for that matter), you want the hip to remain on the outside (exposed) end, but when it ties into the side of the other roof, you want the hip to go away in essence. Every move I make to accomplish that, leaves me with a partial hip tying to the side of a slope. Can you direct me to the proper way to accomplish that? I've gone to properties/roof style and tried every design w/ no luck.
Solution: right click on that sub-roof, and choose Hip, or "Partial Hip" but only one end.
And if the software puts the hip on the wrong end, you select that roof section, then change the end that it thought you wanted (I think it calls the ends of the roof "A" and "B" so you you just change it to the other option if it isn't what you wanted.)
If you do that, you achieve a "hip" on the end of the roof that aims away from the house. The part that connects to the main roof is NOT A HIP and simply forms valleys where it connects to the main roof.
Here is an image http://www.catadjuster.org/Forums/t...fault.aspx
that is NOT what you are asking for, but nonetheless it shows an example of a "hip" on only one end of a roof. In that example, the hip is not where yours is, but once you learn the software you can change those things within seconds.
I know some people reading this do not use Xactimate, and throw rocks at it, and the complexity of this adds to your dislike of the software. I use lot's of unfriendly software, like Photoshop and Web site software that is also very difficult - but very powerful. I keep my glass 1/2 full, and just learn the software. If you keep your attitude up, it can go very fast. if you fight it, you aren't really open for learning something new.
Bob H
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09/11/2008 9:10 PM |
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You can also right click and go into properties, select to hip only one end. The easiest way is to use a square break and drag an extension out. If I'm understanding the problem correct.
JWG
I know the voices aren't real, but sometimes they're right!
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BobHVeteran Member Posts:759
09/11/2008 9:12 PM |
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Posted By Jim Gary
...The easiest way is to use a square break and drag an extension out. If I'm understanding the problem correct.
Yeah, if the eves are all at the same height - that is a great solution. Even if they aren't... you could drag it out, then modify the properties of the eve height as a 2nd step.
Bob H
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Ed The RooferMember Posts:59
09/11/2008 10:50 PM |
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Since I am only intersted in Roofs for my trade, do you know of any tutorials to teach Xactimate just for the roofing tricks?
I may consider purchasing the software, since that seems to be the most highly recognized one out there.
Thanks.
Ed
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okclarrydVeteran Member Posts:954
09/11/2008 10:53 PM |
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Ed,
There's a training disc available but I would bet all the training you need is right in front of you under "Help".
There is a wealth of information built in to Xactimate but sometimes it's hard to find
Larry D Hardin
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BobHVeteran Member Posts:759
09/11/2008 11:01 PM |
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I agree with Larry. I bought the 2 training DVD's for Xactimate 25 (even though I have been using the software for 15 years - you have to stay current). I cannot say that it really contains ANY significant tricks or tips on doing the roof diagrams, but it does help with the basics. I am glad I got them, but can't say it will directly address what you are asking for.
If you really, fully understand the basics you will do fine, and you can get that from the tutorials from the program and applying them to real life as you go.
Bob H
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HuskerCatVeteran Member Posts:762
09/11/2008 11:56 PM |
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Lots of good tips from some guys who have obviously studied & learned the tricks on the roof Sketch. But like each of you know, it took you al lot of time to figure it out and when you first tried it....the results were not what you intended or expected. And you only knew that because of experience or because you already had your rough sketch & calculations in hand. For all the field adjusters that have not yet mastered the program, I cannot imagine a carrier that would object to an "out of the ordinary" " roof being diagrammed manually. Eliminating calls on questionable scope & reinspections on even 1 out of 10 is a big difference maker.
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09/15/2008 11:49 AM |
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Great info guys. Thanks a million, especially you, Bob.
Bud
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09/15/2008 8:52 PM |
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The Xactimate 24 Training DVD has an excellant complex roof. Basic principles still work in 25.
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